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learning about the tour
WE MADE IT!!!
Friday October 9, 2009
We survived the Gravity assisted mountain biking tour on the world's most dangerous road!
We took this tour with 5 other people we met here in La Paz and I must admit I didn't jump to the occassion. I considered hanging out at the hostel while Kevin went, until of course we met 5 other people to go with. I really am glad we went!
After situating our breaks and gears and also getting fitted for our elbow pads, knee pads, jackets, pants, gloves and helmets, we took off for our 60 miles or more journey down the dangerous road.
The first 45 to 60 minutes of the bike ride was the most peaceful. No sounds only wonderful views off clifs and a beautiful desert scene through the clouds. Some cars on the road were a bit crazy. This was also the most peaceful because this part of our experience included paved roads.
Next, we bought our tickets that allowed us entrance to "The Death Road" which is literally what it says on our admission ticket! This was the beginning of gravel roads and seriously crazy drivers on a more narrow road than before. This path also over looks deadly clifs. The clifs that cause deaths if you slip off. Of course we slowed down a bit when we hit these curves and went around these immense clifs. My favorite part by far was this section of the ride because of the landscape. From a cold cloudy and still beautiful desert scenery comes a green lush atmosphere FULL of waterfalls. We actually got to ride under waterfalls, not only getting wet but muddy too. The surprising part was the typical track/road was closed. For the last 30 to 45 minutes we were taken on a detour where there was absolutely NO path to follow. It was all rock. Just mountain biking on huge rocks. I skid a few times but not enough to fall or stop. I seriously was in shock that everyone was so casyally biking this part. I stopped for a few minutes to let someone catch up with me and to be sure everyone was as crazy and I for being there. It was true. Someone passed by laughing at the whole idea of this and I continued. Then the end! Our tour guides gaves us hand shakes and said "Congratulations! You survived the death road" Honestly, at the end, not only did I have no complaints, but I was ready to do it again! There were tons of people complaining their hands hurt because its true the bumpy bumpy bumpy trails for 5 hours shakes and vibrates your hands and makes them hurt a bit. My hands had gotten used to it and since I hadnt fallen (maybe 3 or 4 people did) I felt GREAT!!!
Sunday October 11, 2009
We had to wake up early to get our schedule together for the Bolivia vs. Brasil soccer game. We arrived to the stadium at 3pm and bought jerseys for 30 Bolivianos close to 4 dollars US! the prices in Bolivia are cheaper than ANYWHERE. Kevin got a hilarious hat which was great quality and served its purpose to keeep the sun out of his eyes. We arrived with a group of 25 people from our hostel in an old dodge school bus. Got our seats and prepared for local fun. The only thing Kevin and I really had to get used to was the vendors. SO MANY FOOD SNACK ICE CREAM AND DRINK vendors. Not like in San Diego where they give you space, pass through aisles mention what they have and wait for business. Of course I{m assuming its a combination of culture and economic issues. The vendors walk where you are sitting which is NOT very spacious. It was hard to concentrate on the game. Anyway, when we were watching the game we were able to watch 3 goals and majority of them right in front of us. We didnt know if it was the altitude or because Brasil had already qualified but Brasil was not playing very hard or aggressive at all. Bolivia won and we got to sing the chant we learned beforehand. bo bo bo. li li li. via via via. VI-VA BO-LI-VIA!!! about a billions times with such enthusiasm every time. so much fun! After the game our hostel sponsered a night at a club called RAMJAMS. Apparently this bar was catering to the Brasilians because it was full of yellow jersied Brasilians. The music was ALL Brasilian and it was GREAT... dancing got to be a bit much and we left for dinner. Came back to RamJams and watched a live Brasilian band which was very nice!
The VERY Next morning we left on a very bumpy 18 hour bus ride to Rurrenabaque.
this is at the tourist restaurant in Rurrenabaque
Then arrived to "Rurre" at 5am in the morning. We were stupidly considering taking the 9am tour just 4 hours later to the Pampas. But realized how horrible the unpaved bumpy no rest getting bus ride was. We followed other tourists and ended up at "Residencial Jislene's." Erlam checked us into the room and so kindly let us go to sleep before paying or ACTUALLY checking in with names or anything. We wake up at 1pm and take a walk around this quaint local town located alongside Beni River. We had lunch at this place called "restaurant for tourists".... I ordered enchiladas and Kevin ordered tacos. Our plates come out exactly identical! HILARIOUS. They were all soft tacos with a tomato base Kevin describes as spaggheti sauce. I thought it was tasty ...just not resembling what it claimed to specialize in: Mexican food. To Top this funny story off. I ordered chips and guacamole. which there was awonderful picture of corn tortilla chips with fresh guac. The lady explained it would be extra to order this and I said, of course that's fine. My dish came with french fries and guacamole! I forgot everyone calls french fries "chips" and despite the picture in the menu. I ate my tacos with guac and french fries without!
This Pampas Tour is similar to the jungle treks and tours but it's located at the Amazon Basin and isn't as jungle oriented. It had a great variety of activities. We were picked up at our hostel the next morning. There were two girls from London already in the 4x4 Jeep. We picked up 4 others (2 from London and 2 from South Africa) The 3 hour jeep ride was again unpaved and bumpy. Thank goodness we were with such a great crowd! We laughed it off, shared stories and moments of silence enjoying the landscape which to me varied between Asian green flatlands with trees and African safari green flatlands. We stopped for lunch and there greeted us a LARGE bird. no clue what it was called. it tried to nip at Kevin as he passed by (for no reason). As we started our lunch with delicious soup and pineapple soda we noticed a crowd of 4 people taking pictures of what ended up being a monkey hugging a black hog! This restaurant seemed to also be a house and was a very large property full of not only those animals but adorable little piglets running around, parrots, puppies and more.
After lunch we took a 3 hour motor boat ride on the Beni River. This is where we saw MANY MANY animals. Mainly we counted 80 alligators in 10 minutes. Tons of capivaras, a VERY interesting animal apparently in the rat family but as I like to say "Look Kevin another beaver" They look like oversized beavers. The baby capivaras look like rabbits. so cute. We saw 3 different types of monkeys. Our tour guide Renaldo parked our boat next to a tree with these little yellow monkeys and soon our boat filled with them and ended up only one monkey sitting on my seat back and climbed on Kevin to get out when the boat started. I was a little scared but Renaldo assured us they only bite when you pull their tail? I would hate to hear the discovery story of this fact. Poor monkeys.
Still on the way to our 2 night campsite we saw PINK Dolphins. I could not believe that not only were dolphins swimming in a pretty shallow river but they were PINK. They were so playful and stayed in our area for almost 15 minutes.
Finally to our campsite. Kevin and I had our own cabin out in the corner of the whole campsite complex and later learned we were under tons of monkeys.
Our night ended with Renaldo taking us to the common "Pink Dolphin Bar" which was 2 story and had an incredible view of the sunset. On the way back from the bar to the camp sight it was pitch dark and we enjoyed watching fireflies light up EVERYWHERE. We also got to see a different variety of stars that we dont get to see at home and still saw the milky way. The point of the pitch dark boat ride was also to look for alligators with our flashlights. When the light in shone on them ALL you can see is their red eyes. Of course our flashlghts broke. We saw nothing.
Day 2 of our Pampas Tour we woke up at 530 am. By both Renaldo and the Howler monkeys. These monkeys sounds like they are growling barking or burping at any given time. Oh those crazy monkeys. Some guys from Ireland decided it would be a great idea to walk in the jungle (right behind our cabin) and feed monkeys. We also woke up to more of those tiny little yellow monkeys around our cabin. Which yes, is cute. BUT this is what makes monkeys aggressive and seek human food. For the most part they ARE nothing like the monkeys in the La Paz animal sanctuary who will steal your camera and only return it in exchange for food. NO JOKE.
We then took a 3 hour trek through grass fields, over thicket and branches. with large rubber boots we also walked through swamps in search of ANACONDA. Kevin lifted his foot and the boot was stuck in the mud. He later only had 1 boot full of water and mud. The boots also irritated his shins and gave him scabs. :( On girl had an obvious hole in her boot from the beginning and had to get a piggy back ride over the water and through the mud. Luckily, the guy from South Africa was SOO KIND (really, the WHOLE group was) He not only helped the girl and Kevin but later gave me a hand through the mud. The guide was in such a hunt for the anaconda (or for other reasons) He didnt look back or help our group TOO much. At one point there was a field of grass up to our shoulders and not a great path. on the immediate ground there was lines of branches and I fell. Separated (Kevin and I) for a while until somehow someone realized there should be a few points in the trek where we make sure everyone is counted for. So at the end of it all I really didnt mind not seeing anaconda. It was so terribly hot that day and all of us fair skinned girls and guys were bright red in the face and close to heat exhaustion.
Got back to camp had lunch. and 2 hours to relax. Since we woke up so early Kevin and I fell asleep on the hammocks overlooking the Beni River for almost 1 hour. We changed into our "swimming costumes" as the translations say. This is the part where we attempted to swim with dolphins but couldnt spot them 2 days in a row. Ronaldo parked the boat under a nice shade bearing tree and said "Okay, swimming" (as he barely spoke to us at all, not mentioning what we were doing that day, what shoes to wear, bug repellent needed? camera? no info) continuing.... "Okay, swimming" all 8 of us look at each other and ask him if he is joking. He takes off his shirt and pants. Left only in a navy blue speedo (which left the 2 girls from London laughing histerically) and he jumps in.....conclusion "Okay, swimming" was no joke. We ALL said. okay, if he's in lets go. we all swam in the brown river. This was our shower for 3 days because the shower water at the camp was the same color as the river ... it was river water showers and sinks. As we swam we felt little pokes. There are little fish that bite you unless you keep moving. Oh I kept my doggy paddle to a constant paddle.
swimming with pirhana
We got back in the boat ready to leave to another area to fish for pirhanas and guess what? Renaldo says "Okay, fishing" We swam with pirhanas. He laughs and says "Swim with pirhana's no bad?" (broken english) I caught 4 pirhanas and had to have Renaldo unhook them. Kevin didnt catch any :(
Another sunset night at the pink dolphin bar and another night of Renaldo singing and playing guitar. What a GREAT surprise. He was excellent!
On the way back we had our NOW working flashlight and finally got to see the alligators red eyes. I could NOT believe how many there were just feet away from our moving or stand still boat.
Day 3
Got to sleep in? Well we were told we were allowed to. The Growler Monkeys had none of it and woke us up at 6am. this day we took a 1 hour trek through the mini jungle and looked at poisonous and medicial trees and plants. We sawa few termite nests too. Which I never knew got to be such a huge size! We had lunch and a now 1.5 hour motorboat ride to the area where we then took our 3 hour 4x4 Jeep ride to Rurrenabaque. We said our goodbyes to the WONDERFUL 6 people we met and spent those 3 days with. We ended up meeting up with 4 of them later that night (2 expected and the other 2 had a cancelled flight :() We went to the mosquito bar. We had to run to theb bathroom to spray DEET. We got mosquito bites!!
We spent another night at Rurrenabaque with the lovely family at Residential Jislene. We lounged in hammocks that overlooked the Beni River. Hung out with a sweet little dog that reminds me of Molly's dog Che'..
Woke up and had breakfast there for only 1 usdollar. wonderful, delicious and inexpensive food. our room was 3.50 usd per person. imagine that? We took another 18 hour bumpy bus ride to La Paz and have just arrived.
this view is better than the 45 minute flight from Rurre to La Paz
We are waiting for our room to be vacant and cleaned. Since check in is at 1pm it takes a while to get a room! Thank goodness we were clever enough to book the room in advance at Rurre and instead of waiting until 2 pm we will have our room at about 10am. woot.
I imagine we will try to get to the Cholita wrestling match which leaves at 330pm today. The day we got in sleep deprived.
